One of the big things that makes Clones is the road to it @peddlerscross - you understand this sort of thing.
Traditionally when Iâve gone to Clones itâs been via Cavan. That way, the bit from Butlersbridge on is when it starts getting exciting, you start straddling the border, going in and out of Fermanagh two or three times.
The road via Carrickmacross, Castleblyney and Monaghan is a superior anticipation building exercise however. The N2 is just a superior road to the N3 in terms of your surroundings.
You go through Slane, the other Clones style Mecca that gives me butterflies. The road to Slane is very straight, almost uncomfortably straight. Then the long descent down to the narrow bridge over the Boyne before the long ascent back up. I did not go through Slane yesterday because the bus took the M1 to the Ardee link road before promptly breaking down.
Even that bit between Slane and Carrickmacross is enticing. Itâs very undulating, weirdly undulating like the bit above Cork City when you go onto the M8 back to Dublin. Then when you get past Carrickmacross it starts getting properly exciting.
You have entered DRUMLIN COUNTRY. The countryside is pimpled in these rolling, continuous little hills, but unlike pimples, theyâre beautiful. Itâs like they hide secrets. You donât know whatâs over the next drumlin. Another drumlin, usually. Possibly an old IRA arms dump. Possibly a genius poet or playwright, or boxer. They build houses on the sides of some drumlins, big mansions with big long driveways up to them.
The N2 between Carrickmacross and Monaghan gives an air of bigness and anticipation. Itâs a very smooth and modern looking road in undulating countryside, but itâs deceptively dangerous. A lot of it is a 2 plus 1. It lends itself to speed. Youâre speeding towards Mecca.
Castleblayney has its own mini-Clones with its own mini-Hill, scene of manyâs an Ulster semi-final. That builds anticipation. The turn left into the classic main street in Blayney builds anticipation.
The drumlin pimpled countryside is very Protestant looking. You see Protestant churches. You see little headquarters for Protestant religious sects. This gives an air of otherworldliness. The presence of Protestantism in Ulster, the nearby presence of Orangeism, itâs so much more interesting than then the monotone bog standard Catholicism of the south. Youâre in the south officially but youâre near to themmuns and you feel them being near you. In some ways it feels like being in West Virginia or western Pennsylvania. The properness.
The names of the hotels in Monaghan town build anticipation. The big three hotels, the Westenra, the Hillgrove, the Four Seasons, venues Iâm somewhat familiar with through family occasions or being the Monaghan shirt sponsor or reading in Jerome Quinnâs Ye Olde Ulster Football books of the 1990s about them being the pre-match venues of choice for Derry or Down or Tyrone.
The road from Monaghan over to Clones is twisty and windy. How many more twists and turns until that very long straight stretch where you see Clones on the horizon, on the horizon like that beloved tree that was cut down by vandals for the laugh in Northumbria. Sycamore Gap. Clones is Drumlin Gap. It itself is built on a drumlin, two drumlins, when you walk down Fermanagh Street youâre walking down a drumlin, and then you have to walk up another drumlin to get to Mecca, St. Tiernachâs Park, which is built into the far side of that second drumlin. At the top of the first drumlin, the Diamond, stands the magnificent old Protestant church. At the top of the second drumlin stands an actual cathedral, they probably call it a church but itâs a cathedral, and that is incredibly impressive, and Mecca is on the far side of it.
You donât get this countryside anywhere else in Ireland but Monaghan.
The great GAA venues are inseparable from their surroundings and how you get to them. Thurles is inseparable from the Devilâs Bit and from the square and from the bridge over the rail line, then you see the stadium in front of you.
Cork is inseparable from the long walk and that slanty industrial slide yoke that goes over the long walk, and the mouth of the Lee, you imagining a ship sailing up it and blowing itâs horn as Christy Ring goals a 21 yard free, and inseparable from the posh people of Montenotte looking down on it.
Killarney is inseparable from the mountains, the Irish Himalayas, inseparable from the very impressive looking old convent or is it an old mental home that overlooks the main terrace. Ennis is inseparable from sheds, the good kind of sheds. Newbridge is inseparable from the air of warm winter town centreness.
The BOX-IT Athletic Grounds is inseparable from the cathedrals and the big rock off to the left, and passing cars getting a glimpse of Crossmaglen v Kilcoo in the November dusk in the way the DART used to get a passing glimpse of an otherwise sold out Lansdowne Road.
Pearse Stadium is inseparable from traffic jams, not good traffic jams like at Clones but the crap kind, and inseperable from wind. Dr. Hyde Park is inseparable from stone walls, graveyards and a bang of famine. Limerick is inseparable from big electricity pylons and about nothing else. It has no selling point. Nowlan Park is perfectly pleasant but doesnât grab you. Portlaoise has nothing.
Clones has murals. Clones has âGiants Will Clashâ banners hung over the street. Clones has narrow streets. Clones has the greatest terrace in Ireland and one of the worst stands, with seats designed for people under five feet tall. It used to have the greatest commentary backdrop (up to 1993). Now it has the greatest commentary box, presiding over everything like a king, master of all its surrounds, but it should be left unused and the commentary position should return to the proper side. Clones has the remnants of the old Hill, like the remnants of an old, defunct road or railway line, where people used to climb up to on an expedition, now only trees and ghosts stand there. In Clones the pre-match air is heavier than elsewhere. The only major fault is that once the final whistle sounds that heavy air is suddenly popped like a balloon, but that too is part of the experience, the sudden end and the rush to leave.
Some venues just have a unique selling points or selling points, and some have none. Clones has the most.