Offer him some chaaawwwklit along with cash in hand.
Chaaawwwklit.
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Jesus pal that’s a bit much
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Hard not to laugh when you hear it … quality
That’s fair enough.
I know where I’m not wanted…
But why would you want to insulate between the floors?
Has burn down the house been mentioned yet? Check insurance policy.
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Just one thing. When you are considering the floor/ceiling diving between 2 internally heated area then concentrate more on sound proofing and less on insulation. There are insulations on the market with a better Db rating.
So sounds like the main issue you are trying to address here is air tightness or sealing up existing weak spots. Your plan to run the membrane across the floor under the ply should help and I wouldn’t be too worried about condensation in this regard but a breather membrane would still be a better option. Though you are going to have to penetrate that membrane as part of getting your floor back in so it won’t be perfect.
The thing is though it sounds like you are trying to address air tightness in a particular area of the house and unless you look at the AT whole house holistically then you’ll still get air leakage going through the whole house anyway.
To be honest id be really cautious about making houses too air tight without proper ventilation in place. Between radon and potential mould issues I think a certain amount of air flow going through a house isn’t a bad thing unless of course you have a MHRV system.
Bet you’re confused now 
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Sound…
Yeah, I’m definitely not taking the ‘whole house’ view which is limiting the overall result before I start… but I’m kind of only interested in doing what I can myself while I have the floor up. The low hanging fruit as the middle management types on here might say.
I did read up on acoustic insulation but I could hear my father’s voice in my head telling me in no uncertain terms to catch a hold of myself.
I think the whole air tight thing is a cod, frankly. Stale air can’t be good for you, regardless of the figures quoted on the mvhr system’s marketing spiel.
My place is porous enough that I don’t have to worry about that, but if I can address the obvious leaks and have a more comfortable interior with the plan above I’ll give it a whirl.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
Thanks for waiting patiently.
I want to insulate between the floors because the room below is always used, the room above is not. So any heat generated at great expense below is not retained where it is needed.
The space above, when used, is unable to retain any heat generated. 15% of heat loss is through a floor, supposedly. Add in the gale force winds pissing in from the attic space to the sides, primarily from under the skirting boards, and the space is pretty uncomfortable.
Finally, the noise below when anyone moves around upstairs is comical. Absolutely comical. Insulating the gap will knock that down a heap.
So, heat retention and acoustic comfort.
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Get a divorce
I have a dripping kitchen tap that I want to take apart and check. There are no isolating valves to the hot and cold water supply under the sink. How do I go at the kitchen tap without flooding the place?? Thanks
Could be in the hot press as in my place.
I still have not fixed my dripping tap
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You can buy a pipe clamp in woodies for €16 if it’s a qualplex pipe… clamp it and fit a flexi hose with built in valve like below
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The cold should be a rising main. Turn if off at the meter on the road.
The hot should have a valve in the hot press at the cylinder.
It’s all the one. They’re not fixable now. You may replace the whole thing.
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The stopper for a basketball base is gone missing. The one you fill with sand/water. Any ideas on how to fix it? I’ve trawled online but no sign of any. 1.5 inches id say.
Are you moving it a lot? Just fill it with water, the rain will keep it topped up
Would a rubber bung do the job, like one of these
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Yeah it’s out on the front on the road. Loads of other kids in the estate use it so gets moved a fair bit.
Would a replacement petrol cap from a AutoTrader fit it?
