What’s the story with lads going around dressed like stable-hands these days?
This kind of thing:
http://image.rakuten.co.jp/usmarket/cabinet/belstaff/710051_aa.jpg
A fair amount of fellas going around Summerhill/Ballybough wearing these kind of jackets recently. I don’t know of any stables in the vicinity neither.
:lol:
We’ll have to ask Dunph about this
Townie cunts wanting to be Muldoons… its all the rage.
Paul Galvin: A cut above
Wednesday April 27 2011
Who says fashion is a woman’s world? No one, probably, but I had to ask the question for the sake of rhetoric.
I’m all about equality myself. Sport is seen as a male-dominated environment, but that doesn’t mean women are not an important part of it.
Brian Reyes and Moises De La Renta are snapping at the heels of Prabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra.
Fashion could really be a man’s world for all the male designers in it. Young male designers are coming on stream daily, it seems. We hear all about Tom Ford and see him just as much, as he spends millions on advertising in magazines, along with other top brands.
Hedi Slimane was the creator and director of Dior Homme in 2000 and made such an impression, his name is now a brand in itself. He has turned into a photographer, writer and friend of all the cool kids in fashion and music.
So, what of the lesser-known, independent designers, such as Oliver Spencer? Spencer is an English-born designer with a really British brand. I admire him as he is a self-taught tailor and has created an interesting, masculine brand with references to hunting and military and pieces that are rugged, yet well structured and fitted.
His clothes bridge the gap between traditional and modern, tailoring and streetwear. To do this, a designer needs to be hands-on and have a very clear aesthetic in mind in order not to get lost in the middle.
Choice of fabric and attention to detail are where brand identity and longevity stand or fall, and Spencer is standing tall. Not that well known in Ireland, he opened his first standalone store in NYC in 2006, followed by a second London store in 2008. Given the durable nature of his outerwear, it’s no surprise that some of his inspiration comes from costume designers.
Sandy Powell, the costume designer on ‘Gangs of New York’, is an influence on his work, and his coats are just as well constructed as anything Bill the Butcher wore.
The Portland navy chambray jacket is a perfect example of an Oliver Spencer piece of clothing. A denim fabric in a suit-style jacket is traditional yet modern, tailored yet relaxed. To do this as a designer, proportions are key. The cut must be perfect or the man wearing the jacket ends up looking confused.
Attention to detail is something else I look for and appreciate in clothes. Note the little red tab on the collar. Such playfulness on an otherwise sombre jacket makes all the difference.
Spencer gets it right. If his outerwear is a hybrid, his shirts are pure classicism; simple and fine. Like a Slimane suit, they work best on a slimmer figure. The Clerkenwell Oxford blue button-down shirt has a neat collar and the colour is great on us Irish men. I could close the top button, which was an added bonus. Again, he chooses his fabric well.
While this look is quite grown-up, and he has a grown-up aesthetic, his collection caters for the young Oli Spencer, too. Flag T-shirts with pocket details in greens and blues, and multi-stripe tees and polos are young and colourful.
Bedford shoes in greys and navys with red soles are smart yet playful. Again, he takes the seriousness out of his collection with a touch of personality. This is a clued-in designer.
Collarless shirts are another feature of the Oliver Spencer range and another reason I like him. I’ve been cutting all the collars off mine; I find them superfluous. No collars create a more fluent silhouette, but, again, may only suit a certain silhouette. To each, their own.
So, if you’re looking for something of your own, something one-off, created by a unique design talent with a modus operandi* that whispers individuality, you’ll find it at Indigo & Cloth on Dublin’s South William Street.
If it’s good enough for Paul Weller…
All clothing by Oliver Spencer at Indigo & Cloth, Basement, 27 South William Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 670 6403; www.indigoandcloth.com
I know it’s not Friday but this guy Galvin really knows what he’s talking about. Cutting the collars off shirts for a more fluent silhouette is huge in NYC right now.
*Cian Foley will not like this bit.
i must admit i have fierce time for galvin. the guy does his own thing and does not give a flying fuck what anyone thinks.
He does his own thing alright. He wears a scarf, ladies jacket and man bag in public…
I’m getting really into vests myself lately. They’re useful for keeping warm and layering. For a vintage look for men, I can’t help but think of one of my favourite movies, ‘Donnie Brasco’. Check out the style in that movie.
Part of the deal was looking the part. If Lefty Ruggiero wasn’t lounging around in a red flared tracksuit with huge collars, worn open over a vest, he was slicked up in fine leather jackets or overcoats, or blazers and polo necks and smart flared trousers.
Old movies, art, literature and music still influence fashion today. H&M’s design team were influenced this season the gypsy style of the 1970s. I love the gypsy style in the movie ‘Snatch’ – tracksuit legs with leather boots and leather jackets. Lots of layering. Open shirts over vests. Leather bowler hats. Class.
he should be doing the fashion segments for the racing.
He is certainly prettier than Marietta :lol:
he would be in his element at royal ascot
Where are you reading all this stuff? :lol:
What happened to this noble thread?
Ted Baker top.
Tommy Hillfiger jeans.
Onitsuka Tiger runners.
Non descript boxers.
Non descript socks which are odd.
Yours etc,
Farmer
Anyone ever buy a pair of shoes online? What’d be a good website? I went looking in a few shops already and there was nothing but shite brown yokes with straps across the front or pointy toe’d shoes like Dunph would wear.
I went for a daring brown belt and brown shoes combo today but don’t think I pulled it off.Have a black shirt with a light pin stripe in it and a pair of grey/charcoal slacks
Would normally wear a black belt/shoes combo with such an outfit but I have yet to successfully break in my new black shoes and they are still cutting the feet off me hence why i reverted to my comfortable brown ones
Mens Brown Thomas fashion supplement with the Irish Times today. The old phrase fools and their money crossed my mind a number of times as I read it, but perhaps the standout item was a pair of desert boots for €335.
I met Rocko at lunchtime and I regret to inform the forum he’s not wearing the red jumper purchased for him by his wife that he was sporting two Fridays ago.
I cannot recommend mandmdirect.ie highly enough for your casual Friday fashion needs.
I’m showing off a new outfit nearly every Friday these days since making a large number of purchases a few weeks back. I even received compliments on my garb from clients a couple of weeks ago and barely had to mention the new clothes before the praise came flooding in.
Do they cater for the larger gentleman Rocko?